Wednesday, January 27, 2010

January's Off Brand Finds!

Once a month I'm going to post some offbrand finds that can be considered classical lolita.

Todays finds are brough to you by forever21 and Target
Forever 21's (twelve by twelve)

These blouses could be worn with almost any lolita piece (so long the colors matched)  as long as you tuck the length of the shirt in under your petti so as not to push down the poof.

These see through blouse are very elegant (the picture does not do it justice) and worn with proper under/over garments, could work very well.  I just bout the pink/black mutton sleeve blouse and will post it being worn as soon as I find something appropriate to wear with it.

These are some pretty versatile sweaters.


Simple with a long ribbon. Would work for anyone!

Monday, January 25, 2010

Lolita Sewing: useable commercial patterns

One way to get your dream dress is to make it.  Unfortunately, not all of use are skilled designers who can draft their own elaborate patterns, but there are a few (like me) who can follow directions and stitch in a mostly straight line.  So all we need are some decent patterns.  While there are patterns offered with every Gothic&Lolita Bible, they can be confusing and the sizing can be tricky, so here are some easily accessable commercial patterns that can be found at almost any fabric store or online.

Here is a list of commercial patterns I have found useful:

S=Simplicity, M=McCalls, B=Butterick Br=Burda, V= Vogue

Blouse & Cutsew

2501--- A very versatile blouse with several cute collar and sleeve options (on my wishlist!)
S 3684---blouse with tuxedo bib/ruffles, long or short gathered sleeves
S 3750--- top with elastic on sleeves and bust, good for blouse, cutsew, or replace the bottom with a fuller skirt for an OP.
B4988 --- this very cute, sweetheart top is a bit low cute to use on its own but would make and excellent bustier or bodice for a Jumperskirt.

M5800--- I haven't tried it yet (just purchased) but it looks like a perfect jumper with little alterations needed.
3673--- I've used this one, its retro, has a great bodice, flattering, but the skirt could be bigger though, I recommend making the skirt wider, and the pleats bigger and longer
S 2757--- Gothic dress with corset bodice. The short skirt is too short, and it can look a little too 'hot topic with the wrong materials
S 2832--- a costume, so the skirt is way to short for loli, but if lengthened, could work. Also, a usable Antoinette style bodice, simpler than more historically accurate versions.
B5315-- very cute dress with a peterpan collar.  I've used this pattern with no alteration and it made a very loli dress.  I later added length to sleeves and skirt and wore it to the dickens fair.  Must have.
B5317--- I've used this dress as a jsk before with good results. The bodice isn't my favorite but it works.

2862 --- A fitted vest for women, also patterns for handbags which is nifty
S 2536--- "its so easy" caplet and clutch purse
S 2517--- Unisex, Sherlock Holmes coat
B5265 --- Victorian Cape, Bonnet, Muff, and overskirt.  A Classical Loli Starter Kit!
B4419--- beautiful, frilly victorian cape with collar or hood
B5235--- Victorian style bolero
B4952--- Another Victorina style bolero, with short and long sleave options

B5285--- small and large pleat skirts.  Should be big enough for a petti, but haven't tried this one yet.
M5811--- Circle skirt, 'nough said.
M5631---A great skirt pattern that is bigger than it looks! (thnx to bella eternal on EGL for the tip)

S 2739---An adorable night gown and pajama set
S 2777--- Bloomers of three lengths, and a haunting gothic gown/blouse
S 2890---drawes, chamise, and corset.  I've been told this corset patter is useless for anything other than looking like a corset.

B4087--- Vintage aprons in many styles, including classic maid/alice style (with frilly sleeves)
B5370--- Severla wonderful historicall gloves
B5161---Full sized crowns, fit for a prince
M6047--- Many different types of fabric flowers great for corsage or headress
M5996--- and accessories package that includes a beret, fur collar, mittens, broach, and more
M5946--- Cell phone and ipod cases, ready to for Deco

If you find anything not listed here that will work, please let me know!
(also, please contact if one of the links is broken)

Now there is another list like this on Avant Gauche that I used to go off of, but it seems it has not been updated too recently, and many of the links listed are broken do to changes in the site, and the patterns being out of print. However, this does not mean these patterns are unobbtainable.  Many companies still sell whats left of out of print patterns on their website, and some can be found on ebay, and other websites.  I will try to keep this list as up to date as possible.

Mori-Loli: part I

I've seen some relations to Mori (or Forest) style and how it relates to Classical Lolita.  This style ties in very well with classical styles and motifs and would be a very interesting crossover that I hope to put together sometime soon.

I highly recommend a good blog post that was made on Lolita Charm on the subject.

When I came across mori type style my first thought was, "that's a some sort of special style? Doesn't almost everybody dress like that?" and the answer to that is 'no, just the college students in San Francisco do'.  Basically its sort of a vintage/antique, hipster-hippie vibe that's not unlike a pretty popular look here by the Golden Gate so I won't be short of inspiration or materials.  My first step was to stroll around the famous Haight-Ashbury district where its easy to find unique and out of the box modern and vintage pieces.  In an extra attempt to follow the ideology of the style I"m also picking up some used items and recycled materials to put my outfit together, along with using all natural fibers and handmaking my accessories.  Here's what I've come up with:

  • A lined velvet curtain (used, thrift)
  • crocheted socks (new)
  • felt hat with flowers (used, thrift)
  • ribbon bouquet fabric (left-over from old job)
  • Sweater knit fabric (left-over from old job)
  • eyelet lace pillow cases (used, thrift)
  • pink lining fabric (new)
  • dusty rose pumps (used, thrift)
  • various button, charms  (used, ~my grandma's old costume jewelery)
  • antique lace bits (used, craft fair)
  • cameo pendants (new)
  • vintage lacey slip, (used, thrift)
(would've taken pics but as you can see that's alot of stuff, so pics will have to come later)

Now, this post will be the first installment of my "Mori-Loli"  series, and to start I'm going to discuss my plans for a coordinate in this style that I will design and sew.  Hopefully the process (mistakes and all) will help others planning on putting together a new look.

Friday, January 22, 2010

Dolly Style so cute!

Just got a heads up from MissNightshade's face book post on the cutest thing eva!

To put it in her words, "Its like Morigirl and Lolita had a wonderful Baby"

Its certainly inspired me, so I'm going to try to put this look together.  So adorable, and irresistibly classic.

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Virtual Doll Lovelies

If you haven't found Poupee doll yet your missing out.  Over the summer I became obsessed (which is how you know its time for classes to start).  Now I'm constantly recovering old flash drives to find pictures of earrings and socks.  Here's the basics: you post picture of your clothes, accessories, or make-ups and you earn ribbons. These ribbon buy cute outfits for your avatar.  Our you could waist your dollars via paypal and get the ribbons that way (which i did once or twice, but only becuase it was a limited item).  It's like being a real shopper becuase they even have lucky packs.

Fashion brand community - poupeegirl

There are less intensive virtual dolls like the the Sailor Senshi or the Gothic Lolita makers.  They're fun and take five minutes to do.  The Sailor Senshi doll maker is the best by the way, good memories.

Classic Lolita Style: the Dropped waist

This month Metamorphose Temps de Fille has released its 'Antique Dolly' dress in it's Revival Bouquet print, which is much more classical feeling than this brand usually goes, but Metamorphose likes to be all over the map so it's not surpise.  

Its seems to break the traditional rules of the cupcake like silloute but still feels right at home with the style.  This style is not a modern twist, nor is it necessarily taken from the dropped waist styles of the twenties.  After a point in fashion history a dropped waist or an empire waist was a popular cut for childrens garments, and the dropped waist was especially popular during the periods that inspire Lolita.

Here are some popular childres styles from the late victorian period.  When the bustles for adults became popular, the long waist with pleats and gathers replaced the 'Alice' silloutte that we usually think of for children during this time.  Of course the drop waist style was popular throughout the edwardian era as well.
Since it was a Popular childrens fashion, many dolls of the period were dressed in this style, which is why many brands who produce dropped waist style refer to them as 'antique' or 'doll' in some way.
Here are some low waist styles from other brands (some may no longer be available).

The style is very cute and is an interesting break from the usually cupcake style.  On the more practical side they don't require as many petticoats, (some styles have them built in at the right length) and your bloomers are as easily exposed on a windy day.  The downside to the style is it may be harded to find in larger sizes, particularly in hips, even for some medium sized persons.

If you do get your hands on this style, I recommend carrying a doll and wearing a bonnet to complete the 'antique' look.  Also consider trading a purse or bag with a smaller satchel or soft bag or tote.  This style creates a leaner shape but may not be too flattering on an hourglass figure or someone with a larger bust.  This style coordinates well with long tight or over the knee socks and longer bloomers as well.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Welcome my dear friends,

And thank you for reading.  I'd be delighted to find out that you know where the name of this blog comes from.  It's one of my favorite songs and hopefully it's yours too.

This Diary has been created for the beautiful, elegant, and refined Classical Lolita.  It's a subcategory that seems to be often overlooked in today's popular Lolita culture while Sweet and Gothic Lolita, which I admit is often more opulent, seems to growing in popularity in the States.  While the sweet prints and adventurous modern tailoring of these styles is gorgeous, I'm still very fond of the original influences of Lolita fashion.  Classical Lolita is more connected to its roots, stemming effortlessly from Victorian and Edwardian girls fashion into the modern age.  The style relies less on exaggerated prints and over stuffed accessories and utilizes more complex tailoring trading elaborate border prints for pin tucks, pleats, and flounces.  Synthetic fibers are more out of place in this style than any other, and it calls for more 'mature' prints, and colors.  Here's and overview of what makes a coordinate distinctly classical.

Popular prints and fabrics:

  • muted floral prints
  • damask patterns
  • simple stripe and bar patterns, some polka dots.
  • tradition plaid and tartan patterns
  • Silks, velvet/velveteen, courduroy (more so than the other styles)

Popular motifs:

  • fairytales (not unlike sweet loli style)
  • chandeliers (not unlike gothic styles)
  • forest animals - deer, rabbits, birds
  • teddy bears
  • Roses, sunflowers, poppies
  • Victorian scenes,
  • gardens/bouquets

Garment styles and coordinates that are more uniquely classic:

  • The a-line cut (a straight line, from bust to skirt that flares out)
  • Gathered bustles (tiered bustles are common in all styles)
  • Mutton sleeves
  • back buttons
  • Hats (regular sized, such as the boater style)
  • More structured bonnets
  • Cravat (those fanciful, knotted scarves that burst from the collar)
  • Victorian style boots (ankle or knee high)
  • Longer bloomer and skirts (just below the knee)
  • Brass or antique gold/silver jewelry, cameos
  • Venice and  Chantilly lace, more so than eyelet, raschel or cluny
  • Many have no lace at all
  • More natural hair and makeup colors
There are of coarse many exceptions to the rules and plenty of room for crossover, but these are some of things that define classical Lolita for me.

Thanks for your visit, and here's my logo if you wnat to link with style: